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Edge tools are among the earliest tool forms, with surviving primitive axes dated to 8000 B.C.. Early axes were made by "wrapping" the red hot iron around a form, yielding the eye of the axe. The steel bit, introduced in the 18th century, was laid into the fold at the front and hammered into an edge. The side opposite the bit was later extended into a poll, for better balance and to provide a hammering surface.
The handles took on a variety of shapes, some indicative or origin, others relating to function. The length of the handle had more to do with the arc of the swing that was required. Felling axes took a full swing and therefore needed the longest handles. Early axes have their handles fitted through the eye from the top down and the handles remain in place by locking into the taper of the eye, so they can be removed for sharpening.
Later axes, however, have their handles fit through the eye from the bottom up, and have a wedge driven in from the top. This permanently locks the handle to the axe and was much preferred by American woodsmen. Many axes found today had been discarded because the handle was split or broken off. In most cases they can be bought at a fraction of their value and, with another handle, can be restored to their original condition. Most axe collectors have a stock of older flea-market handles that they use for this restoration. Like plane blades, axe handles might have been replaced two or three times throughout the life of the tool. As long as the handle is "proper," meaning, the right shape and length for its function, it won't detract that much from its value.
Pricing of antique axes runs the entire gamut from a few dollars to several hundred. Examples of well-made axes would include the Plumb, White, Kelly, Miller and numerous others. Beyond these were axes of sometimes lesser quality, but built to a price, and sold by the thousands. Exceptional examples might include handmade axes, possibly from the local blacksmith, or from a factory that specialized in the handmade article, regardless of price.
There are several types of axes out there such as:
SINGLE BIT FELLING AXE:
This axe is considered the workhorse of the axe family. It is a simple design, varying from a 2 ½ lb. head used by campers to the 4 ½ to 7 lb. head used for forest work. There are heads used in lumbermen's competition that are up to 12lbs.. With the advent of the two-man crosscut saw, and later the power chain saw, tree no longer are taken down by axes. The axe is more a utility tool for clearing branches off the downed tree, and splitting firewood.
DOUBLE BIT FELLING AXE:
Double bit axes always have straight handles, unlike any other modern axe. Almost all axe handles are hickory. Hickory has both strength and spring, and was found very early to be the best for axe handles. Starting in the late 1800's a number of axe manufactures adopted intricate logos that were embossed or etched on the head of the axe. Almost 200 different styles have been identified to date and these have also become an interesting collectible.
BROAD AXE:
The broad axe is not as common as the felling axe, and is a lot larger. It's purpose was to square up logs into beams. It used a much shorter swing that the felling axe, therefore required a much shorter handle. The identifying feature of many of these axes is the chisel edge, that allowed the back side of the axe to be dead flat. Because of that, it posed a problem of clearance for the hands. To keep the hands from being scraped, the handle was canted or swayed away from the flat plane of the axe. This is the feature that should always be looked for when buying a broad axe. If the edge is chisel-sharpened, then the handle should be swayed. As with the felling axe, the broad axe heads have a variety of patterns, mostly a result of geographical preference.
GOOSEWING AXE:
The goose wing axe is one of the most artistic looking tools out there, and it takes it's name from its resemblance to the wing of a goose in flight. It functions exactly as the chisel-edged broad axe, except that the American version has the handle socket more heavily bent or canted up from the plane of the blade. These axes are large and difficult to forge. Many show cracks and repairs and an original handle is rare. Signed pieces, particularly by American makers, mostly Pennsylvania Dutch, are considerably more valuable. Also of importance is the difference in value between American and European axes, the American ones being worth considerably more. A few well-known 19th century American makers whose names appear imprinted on axes are Stohler, Stahler, Sener, Rohrbach, Addams, and L.& I.J. White.
SHIPWRIGHT'S OR MAST AXE:
This axe is used for shaping ships' masts and timbers, and is usually ground on both sides. It varies in length base on local usage. The double pointed ears or lugs are common with this axe.
COOPER'S AXE:
This axe has a lighter handle socket, well canted and carries a very short handle. Although the general differentiation between an axe and a hatchet is that an axe is used with two hands and a hatchet with one, the cooper's axe is one of the exceptions to the rule. It was used mostly for shaping barrel staves, and was almost always used with one hand while the other held the stave.
COACHMAKER'S AXE:
This is an asymmetrical axe used for shaping coach parts in almost a paring manner. The heads vary in size, some styles taking on a "bearded" effect, hence the nickname "bearded axe." These axes are almost exclusively of European origin.
ICE AXE:
Back in the day, ice was harvested in the winter from ponds and lakes and stored in ice-housed for summer use. This was an important winter cash crop for many farmers. There was a whole family of tools developed to serve this industry, among them was the ice axe. Again, local patterns create a variety of styles.
FIRE AXE:
These are sought-after collectibles, because many of the older ones have the fire company's monogram on the head. All have rear pikes used for clearing openings or creating ventilation.
MORTISING AXE:
The blade on these axes are long and narrow to accommodate the size of the mortise hole it was designed to cut, most often for post and beam construction or for post and rail. Some have double bits, one bit sized for the length and the other for the width of the hole.
TRADE AXE:
Trade axes were originally brought over by the French and Spanish and later by the English and were traded to the Indians who held them in very high regard. They were poll-less and small enough to be carried at the belt and used with one hand. The larger variety were known as squaw axes and were used by the women for chopping wood.
TURF or BOG AXE:
Used for cutting turf and peat, these axes are not heavy enough to cut wood.
HATCHET:
Hatchets are small axes used with one hand.
The first thing you will need to know is what you are planning on running in this time of emergency. The fewer the items or the smaller the amperage, the smaller or least costly inverter will be needed. I will give a table of items and their average power uses below followed by a simple formula that will give you an idea of the size of inverter you will need.
Stackable Washer/Dryer: 2500 Watts
Electric Chain Saw: 1700 Watts
Electric Circular Saw: 1600 Watts
Full Sized Microwave Oven: 1400 Watts
Chest Freezer: 1200 Watts
Mini Microwaves: 1000 Watts
1/3 inch HP Submersible Pump: 920 Watts
Reciprocating Saw: 720 Watts
1/2 inch Reversible Drill: 620 Watts
Coffee Maker: 600 Watts
Portable Vacuum: 525 Watts
Electric Garden Tools: 475 Watts
10 Speed Blender: 450 Watts
Orbital Sander: 400 Watts
Home Stereo: 350 Watts
3/8 inch Variable Speed Drill: 320 Watts
20 inch TV/VCR Combo: 300 Watts
12 inch Three Speed Fan:200 Watts
Computer/Printer/Fax: 150 Watts
Quartz Halogen Spotlight: 100 Watts
Mini Stereo/CD Player: 50 Watts
Laptop Computer/8 inch TV: 38-45 Watts
Cell Phone/Camcorder Charger: 10 Watts
14 Volt Cordless Drill Charger: 8 Watts
If the appliance you are planning on using is listed in watts, just go ahead and use that number. If it is listed in amps you just need to use this simple formula: volts (120) X amps (listed on device) = watts. This will give you the amount of watts the appliance will be using. So if you had a 3 amp appliance, and you wanted to find the watts, the formula would be: 120 (volts) X 3 (amps) = 360 watts.
You would then total all of the watts that you will be using and come up with a number. Lets say your total watts usage is 500 watts. If that's the case it would be a good idea to get a 750 watt inverter. Always get a larger size than what you think you will need, it may come in handy.
Your next step will be to determine where your power supply is going to come from. If it is for emergency purposes there is a very good chance that it will be coming from a battery hooked up to your vehicle, or you may be a little better prepared and have a bank of batteries hooked up in a parallel fashion. Since most people reading this are probably unfamiliar with creating a battery bank I will just cover running the inverter from the vehicle. The main thing to know is what type of battery you will be using. It is suggested that you have a deep cycle battery or those that are used for trolling motors or golf carts and that you get as many amp hours as your budget allows. A few years back I was able to go 11 days using a 750w inverter and a 120amp hour deep cycle battery attached to my car. I had to run the car for 10 minutes every 2 hours to run everything that I had hooked up which was a laptop, 13" color tv, direct tv receiver, modem for the laptop, 40w light, and a small box fan. That doesn't sound like much, but I thought I was staying at the Ritz Carlton compared to most of my neighbors.
The last thing you need to know is how long will your power supply (battery) last before it needs recharging. First you will need to know the wattage of all the appliances. Lets say we have 480 total watts of power being used, and we are running our inverter off of a 12 volt battery attached to the car. Next we have to convert this number so that we know how many amps are being used. We do this by taking the watts (480) and dividing it by 12 (volts of the battery) and come up with 40 amps. The formula is: watts / volts = amps. If we have a 120 amp hour battery we would divide 120 (amp hours) by 40 (amps) and get 3 hours before the battery is dead. It is recommended not to drain a battery below 50% of its capacity so you may want to divide the 3 hour in half giving you 1 1/2 hour before starting the car up to recharge the battery.
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As I haven't been feeling lucky lately, and my usual "Pave my own Destiny" line was on a leave of absence, I checked up some of the "luck rituals" and "lucky charms" that could perhaps change my luck a bit for the day.
Turns out there are so many lucky charms out there on the net, with the simplest of purposes (to bring you luck), to the looniest. Some of them we already know; while some are just out of this world.
Here are a few:
Indescribable Key Chain
The picture says its all. If you're feeling unlucky in the copulation department, then this trinket is for you. The site where I saw this says it was probably from the 70s because of the physical features of both the man & women, reminiscent of the trends during that year.
Money Tree
With the price of oil going haywire these days, perhaps I shall purchase my own money tree although I think gamblers need these more than me (or maybe my mom who is a bingo enthusiast). Whatever your reason maybe, the money tree will bring you luck in the financial department. Popular with the gambling folks
Swastik Pyramid Yantra
As it says on the site, it should not be confused with the Nazi Swastika, but it gets points for interesting for me. The Vedic Swastik is the symbol of Ganpathi, the lord of good fortune. Again another "general" use lucky charm that you might like to purchase. They don't come cheap these lucky charms!
Omamori Charm from Japan
Suspiciously looks like a tea bag to me! It's a charm for protection from various elements (ghosts and other vicious back stabbers beware). It also helps a bit in gambling (what is with these general purpose lucky charms!?). Looks nice with its traditional print, and an added bonus! If you keep it in your car and backpack, you'll have a more auspicious or luckier chance with the women. Doesn't hurt to try! If you're a fan of Japanese Culture, this is for you.
Raccoon Penis Bones
From the name itself, you'd know what this is lucky charm is for. Jerry Hall once said that "growing up in Texas, boys gave raccoon penis bones to girls they liked as a form of love token or simple love spell". In 2004, it became popular among women who were sold to this love amulet to get their luck with men started. In fact, a group of women capitalized on this and started selling raccoon penis bones in the form of earrings (hmm that sounds... not so sexy.) Also in 2004, Third Eye Blind Frontman caught Vanessa Carlton's eye when he gave her a dried raccoon's penis necklace and his book "Sarah". Literally worked like a charm!
Lucky Charm from WOW
I just had to feature this! These are just some of what I've been reading over at the forums:
"Can also be used for the superstitious. It could help improve the drop rate of your desired item! Make sure you collect 7 if you're even more superstitious."
"Rogue with these charms seemed to attract paladin drops. Amazing."
"Be sure not to stop farming them when you get 13." Spooky.
I've always believed in making my own luck, paving my own road, but sometimes I just like to hold on to something tangible - and I guess these lucky charms - although no, I won't really be using that raccoon penis bone - will work just fine. Whether you're superstitious or not, a bit of luck, salt over your shoulder and a short prayer will probably do your day a bit of good.
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Woodworking tools are an important thing for any woodworker. It is good to have quality tools and make sure you have the tools you need. You should strive to gather a nice set of woodworking tools so that you can handle all your wood working projects with ease and produce quality results every time.
Basic Tools
You will need some basic tools that you will be using for almost every project you do. It is important for you to start building your collection with these tools because they are the minimum basics you will need to do projects. You need a good quality, durable chisel. This is a tool that you will use a lot so do not go for a bargain brand. You will need more than one, so buy a range of sizes from ¼ inch to 2 inches. You might also want to buy a mallet to use with your chisels. You will also need clamps, which also come in a variety of sizes. You might want to choose a few different sizes. These are fine to buy in used condition or bargain brands. You should also buy a framing or carpenter square. You want one marked in metric and inches. You also need a good drill. You can buy corded or cordless, it is up to your personal preference and budget. You want one with good features like reverse, varying speeds and if cordless, high voltage batteries. You will also need some drill bits in various styles. Lastly, for your basic tools you need a hand plane. You will likely need a jack plane and a block plain for shaping and trimming. You may also want to get a smoothing plane for fine cuts.
Buying Tools
You will want to shop around. Be sure to follow the tips above on buying good quality. Some tools should be a good name brand while others are fine if bought off brand or even used. You can search for sales at local stores, in classified ads in the newspaper or online for good deals. For used tools look online and at flea market, where great deals can often be found on name brand tools. Be careful when buying used tools. Check them out for damage and quality. Always keep in mind, though, that when purchasing lesser quality tools you will likely have to replace them often, so buying good quality tools is a better investment for the long term.
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